Perrault

From a scientific perspective, it is clearly evident that hair loss is not typically “caused” or “cured” by the shampoo we use. Nevertheless, popular myths have created the perception that the fate of our hair follicles is largely related to the list of ingredients on our shampoo bottle.

In truth, hair loss cannot be treated by merely using a shampoo that contains “natural” ingredients or special hair loss treatment additives. The effective treatment of hair loss requires evidence-based medical treatments administered by a qualified professional.

Be that as it may, a clean and calm scalp is a necessary prerequisite for hair follicle wellness and the optimal treatment of hair loss. Regular “balanced cleansing” of our hair and scalp is therefore essential.

To more accurately understand the relationship between scalp health, hair loss, and the benefits and risks of various shampoos, it’s helpful to consider some basic aspects of our scalp’s structure and function.

The scalp is commonly defined as the hair bearing “skin” that covers our head. Bordered by the face and neck, the skin of our scalp is very similar to the skin of our face; the main difference is the hair follicles, which are typically larger, pigmented, longer growing, and more plentiful.

Like the skin on our face and body, the skin of our scalp is continually being renewed. The deep layers of the epidermis continually produce new living skin cells. The top layers of the epidermis, which are mostly dead skin cells, become flattened and form a protective barrier. This protective barrier of dead skin cells, which forms our skin’s surface, is called the stratum corneum.

As new cells are added from the deep layers, dead skin cells from the surface of the stratum corneum are continually being shed.

Sebaceous glands produce the “oil” on our skin called sebum. These tiny skin glands surround and empty into the same pores that hair follicles exit from. The face and scalp have a high density of sebaceous glands, and therefore produce more sebum, compared to other areas of the body.

Sebum is not actually an oil, it is a complex fatty, waxy substance that protects against evaporative water loss, and smooths the hair strand’s fish scale-like cuticle layer. So when functioning properly, sebum preserves our hair and skin’s hydration, and acts as a natural hair conditioner.

When in proper balance, sebum and dead skin cells of the stratum corneum form a protective barrier. However, the excess accumulation, or “buildup,” of sebum and dead skin cells can have adverse effects. Buildup harbors harmful organisms, debris, and environmental irritants, which cause inflammation.

Notably, inflammation of the scalp can exacerbate hair loss. A clean and calm scalp is therefore a fundamental prerequisite for hair follicle wellness and the optimal treatment of hair loss.

Attempts to treat hair loss by avoiding shampooing can increase the risk of scalp inflammation and make hair loss worse.

Maintaining a clean and calm scalp is best achieved by the regular use of a shampoo that provides gentle “balanced cleansing.”

Balanced cleansing effectively removes harmful buildup without overly stripping away sebum and stratum corneum cells. Natural hydration and the protective benefits derived from a healthy balance of these elements is therefore, preserved.

In short, similar to caring for our facial skin, regular balanced cleansing of the scalp is essential. We routinely advise our patients that in order to maintain optimal scalp wellness simply…“treat your scalp like your face”

Inflammation normally occurs when white blood cells and antibodies attack bacteria, viruses, and foreign substances in order to eradicate them from our body. Inflammation is therefore a protective and necessary response of our immune system, under normal conditions.

Under abnormal conditions our immune system can attack and destroy various vital structures within our body. This self destructive process is responsible for numerous inflammatory and autoimmune disorders. Our hair follicles are no exception since most forms of hair loss are either made worse, or primarily caused, by inflammation. Curiously, most forms of pattern hair loss, which are genetic in origin, have an inflammatory component.

Consequently, things that stimulate the scalp’s immune response and cause inflammation, can make our hair loss worse. Bacteria, fungus, mechanical irritation, injury, and chemical irritants, are common immune system triggers of the scalp.

Shampoos that are designed to stimulate the scalp, or that contain harsh additives, can also cause inflammation and make hair loss worse. In contrast, shampoos that calm and gently cleanse the scalp, reduce and prevent the many harmful affects of imflammation.

For a topically applied hair loss treatment to be effective, the treatment agent must penetrate into the skin and be taken up by the cells of the hair follicles being treated. This necessary process is referred to as Transdermal Delivery.

The greatest obstacle to transdermal delivery is the previously described protective barrier at our skin’s surface, i.e. the stratum corneum. Penetration through the stratum corneum is typically made possible by the use of Penetration Enhancers (PEs) and by leaving the topical agent on the skin for a prolonged period of time.

For example, most topical medical treatments are “leave-on” formulations, where the drug is dissolved in one or more penetration enhancers. These formulations are applied and then left on the skin or scalp to promote optimal penetration and efficacy.

With most topical hair loss treatments, the penetration enhancer acts as a vehicle that carries the active agent through the stratum corneum and into the cells of the waning hair follicles.

Examples of PEs include solvents such as ethyl alcohol, oils such as rosemary oil, or Retinoids, like Retin-A and Retinol. Terpenoids, which are also excellent penetration enhancers, are naturally present in many essential oils, herbal remedies, and many other botanicals.

Shampoos, on the other hand, are typically water based. Unlike PEs, water-based shampoos have poor stratum corneum penetration, and are repelled by the skin’s protective surface, never reaching deeper levels where hair follicles reside; much like water on a duck.

Moreover, shampoos are only in contact with the scalp for a brief period of time, and then thoroughly rinsed. Due to their poor penetration and brief scalp contact, shampoos are an ineffective delivery system for hair loss treatment additives. Increasing the period of contact by leaving shampoo on the scalp for a prolonged time, which some products recommend, can result in excessively harsh cleansing and greatly increases the risk of scalp irritation.